This winter hollidays Im in Brazil (rio), and ofcource, Im loving it. I can feel the hot tropical air and the smell of sand. This weekend I whent to a small iland to surf with some friends. I practiced my paddling. The beach had white sand and light blue water, the waves are small so it was pretty good for my surfing level. I had a great time and now, I look like a lobster -_- ALWAYS WHERE SUNBLOCK!!! I can hardly move my arms.... I loved the feeling of the drop and my hand on the cold water, and yes, I am entirely obsseced with surfing.
I miss you Rosa Mulloy, I wish you were surfing with me
Waves
quinta-feira, 22 de dezembro de 2011
segunda-feira, 28 de novembro de 2011
Definitly Not a Surf Day
The sky was grey, and I was freezing, it was a winter morning but whatever happend I wanted to Surf. I dressed my wetsuit before I freezed like a ice cube and then, I was ready!
When I looked at the sea it was... enourmouse I could hear the strong sounds the waves made crashing, I could see all th pro surfers making their airflips and tubes.... but I couldn't see me surfing in the middle of that whole confusion, anyway I got the courage to start paddling but the sea wouldn't let me go forward! After minutes of padling and padling with my weak arms, I got there. Suddenly I saw a huge waves and I was ready to go out of my surfboard and dive in the wave, that was my first instinct, my teacher suggested me to do the wave and I was just speachless. I closed my eyes and he pushed me to the wave, there I was standind in high speed in that huge waves, dodging all the surfers who passed in front of me, behind me and etc... I was loving it! I was cutting the wave, and I loved the sensacion! but I forgot one thing.... one importante thing,the wave was going to end, it was going to expolode! Suddenly I fell out of the board , and I prottected my head while I did "rolly polies" with the wave bringing me to the sand. That was certainly a big wave. And I was proud of it!
This story is for Rosa Mulloy, one of my best friends who always surfs with me, for encouraging me to go that day; For Francisco my favourite surf teacher who has always been a great friend and teacher and to Marta Oliveira that with her, I would never had the ideia to have my first lesson!
When I looked at the sea it was... enourmouse I could hear the strong sounds the waves made crashing, I could see all th pro surfers making their airflips and tubes.... but I couldn't see me surfing in the middle of that whole confusion, anyway I got the courage to start paddling but the sea wouldn't let me go forward! After minutes of padling and padling with my weak arms, I got there. Suddenly I saw a huge waves and I was ready to go out of my surfboard and dive in the wave, that was my first instinct, my teacher suggested me to do the wave and I was just speachless. I closed my eyes and he pushed me to the wave, there I was standind in high speed in that huge waves, dodging all the surfers who passed in front of me, behind me and etc... I was loving it! I was cutting the wave, and I loved the sensacion! but I forgot one thing.... one importante thing,the wave was going to end, it was going to expolode! Suddenly I fell out of the board , and I prottected my head while I did "rolly polies" with the wave bringing me to the sand. That was certainly a big wave. And I was proud of it!
This story is for Rosa Mulloy, one of my best friends who always surfs with me, for encouraging me to go that day; For Francisco my favourite surf teacher who has always been a great friend and teacher and to Marta Oliveira that with her, I would never had the ideia to have my first lesson!
Today I had the neverlasting english class. My teacher couldn't be more fussy, she's got big round glasses, a huge skirt till her anckles and a shirt who looks like a curtain. She's the most demanding teacher ever! I'm the only student who can speak english normally, but she's so irritating! She corrects me every time I say or write something in American, but no, the teacher wants British english! "I guess I'll watch the telly, cheerio!". Anyway, the rest of my day was normal, as usuall.I'll guess I'll go now... practice my fake british accent :P
Please, comment on my texts, wich is you'r favorite(british english: FAVOURITE)
Please, comment on my texts, wich is you'r favorite(british english: FAVOURITE)
domingo, 27 de novembro de 2011
Surf Day
Today I woke up pretty early to surf. When I arrived there I saw the beautifull calm but big waves and I knew it was going to be a great day! Usually at this time of the year, the waves are huge and very very strong here in Portugal but today was certainly a special day, a summer day! I had my favorite teacher and my two best friends. I'm not very advanced at surfing but I had the time of my life!
After surfing for hours, I was freezing, and ready to go home! There I was with barefoot sititng in a bench waiting for my mum to arive, there was a huge sunset and I could smell the smell of the sand. My hair was soaking and I was fool of sand. After my mum pick me up, I went back home and had that typical sunday, when you'r getting everything ready to school, finishing you'r homework and blah blah blah. It was a big day but I loved it.
After surfing for hours, I was freezing, and ready to go home! There I was with barefoot sititng in a bench waiting for my mum to arive, there was a huge sunset and I could smell the smell of the sand. My hair was soaking and I was fool of sand. After my mum pick me up, I went back home and had that typical sunday, when you'r getting everything ready to school, finishing you'r homework and blah blah blah. It was a big day but I loved it.
sábado, 26 de novembro de 2011
Friday Afternoon
It was a Friday afternoon and there I was, at the classroom staring at the clock eagerly. While the annoying geography teacher talked talked about insignificant things, I was eager to run away from that boring envyerment. I just wanted to smell the wind, feel the hot sand in my feet and grab my surfboard. Suddenly the teacher called my attencion, and of cource I pretended I listend to her...
After a endless week of tests, homework and more, it was over! I could finally have a few hours to free myself.
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