The sky was grey, and I was freezing, it was a winter morning but whatever happend I wanted to Surf. I dressed my wetsuit before I freezed like a ice cube and then, I was ready!
When I looked at the sea it was... enourmouse I could hear the strong sounds the waves made crashing, I could see all th pro surfers making their airflips and tubes.... but I couldn't see me surfing in the middle of that whole confusion, anyway I got the courage to start paddling but the sea wouldn't let me go forward! After minutes of padling and padling with my weak arms, I got there. Suddenly I saw a huge waves and I was ready to go out of my surfboard and dive in the wave, that was my first instinct, my teacher suggested me to do the wave and I was just speachless. I closed my eyes and he pushed me to the wave, there I was standind in high speed in that huge waves, dodging all the surfers who passed in front of me, behind me and etc... I was loving it! I was cutting the wave, and I loved the sensacion! but I forgot one thing.... one importante thing,the wave was going to end, it was going to expolode! Suddenly I fell out of the board , and I prottected my head while I did "rolly polies" with the wave bringing me to the sand. That was certainly a big wave. And I was proud of it!
This story is for Rosa Mulloy, one of my best friends who always surfs with me, for encouraging me to go that day; For Francisco my favourite surf teacher who has always been a great friend and teacher and to Marta Oliveira that with her, I would never had the ideia to have my first lesson!